TESTUDO'S SNORKEL GUIDE Cayman Off the Beaten Path

A Rum Point Sunset

SNORKEL GUIDE: RUM POINT BOULDER CORAL GARDEN

TESTUDO’S SNORKEL GUIDE: The Boulder Coral Gardens

Typical giant Lobed Star Boulder Corals, Rum Point Coral Garden, Grand Cayman

This is the spot I am most intimate with and the reason I fell in love with Grand Cayman. Our little Cayman abode is located on the beach at the point and I try to snorkel it at least once a day when we are there. It is amazing to witness the transitions of the marine life during the different tides, coupled with the dramatic effect the angles of sunlight have as they shift throughout the day. My favorite time to visit is about an hour before sunset. It is then that I find the lighting most serene and the abundance and activity of marine life at its peak.

LOCATION INFO: 1^st major coral bed is approximately 225 yds of the actual ‘point’ at Rum Point (19°22’22.56”N 81°16’16.62”W), by the Retreat Condominiums. The 2nd major coral bed is located 25 yds across the sand channel that begins at the far end of the 1^st bed (You can usually see some rays and conch hanging out on the bottom).

(This location is not the “Coral Gardens” frequented as part of many Sting Ray City tours. That location is part of the barrier reef, close to Sting Ray City Sand Bar).

This spot is definitely seeing an increase in visits by the various Wave Runner tours; as evidenced by the multiple excursions stopping by, even on light cruise ship days. There is now only one marker buoy anchored at the site making it a bit harder to spot from shore. While not usually an issue, snorkelers should be aware of any Jet Skis and boat traffic, especially on the weekends. Having a diving/snorkel flag or other identification device is not a bad idea.

My best advice for locating the prime coral beds is to refer to the satellite images below and then orientate yourself standing at the ‘point’ of Rum Point. Look for the two large Marine Zone buoys closer to shore on your right. Look out and to the right of the far buoy to locate the smaller mooring buoy of the site. If water conditions are favorable, you should also see the dark patches of the corals about 225 yds slight off to the left from the point and about 10 yards to the left of the small mooring buoy.

Link to a larger interactive map of Rum Point

Overhead view to get orientated. (Click images for larger version)

View of coral bed location from sign at the point. Boat is moored on marker buoy. Notice larger marine zone buoy on the right.

Coral Garden location with Waverunners moored at marker buoy.

ENTRY: I usually enter the water from a small opening in the iron-shore, about 30 feet to the right of the Marine Zone sign post. There is a sandy-ish bottom and pieces of iron-shore on each side that make for good, albeit sharp, flipper rests or hand holds. You can also head-off from the beach area if the iron-shore is too intimidating.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT: Depending on the weather and water conditions, there can be a slight to moderate current here, especially in the winter months. On the snorkel out, you will pass some small corals directly off the point and then begin to enter a zone with little coral and few fish. The depth approaches 20-25 feet at this point. As you head out, off to the left you should see a ridge rising from the sea floor. I use this geographic feature as a reference to keep my baring.

Approaching the main garden, you will begin to see some soft corals interspersed with a few hard corals on the floor below; continuing onward, they will start to become larger and healthier. The water here is still about 20 ft deep. This is not the main garden. Depending on visibility you may be able to see dark shapes off in the distance, ahead and closer ones to the right. Off to the right are isolated large coral formations. They will be surrounded by a sandy floor. These are located closest to the farther Marine Buoy on the above image (tapering dark patches to the left) . You may not see them if you are closer to the ridge. I usually skip these, but they may be worth a look.

The water level will gradually begin to become shallower, the corals will start to jump in size and more fish (usually Damselfish, Grouper and Dog Snapper) can be seen below around the corals. Try to keep close to the sandy bottom on the right and continue on. Yes, it does seem longer than 225 yds out, but trudge on; you are getting close to the good stuff. Ahead, about 25 yds, you should now see some large boulder corals. Head there and begin exploring, this is the entrance to the garden. A Moray Eel sometimes hangs out here. The area along the right with the sandy bottom is where the largest and most dense concentrations of corals and fish will be. Water depth is between 15-20 ft.

Among the many species of fish darting around and about the corals, large schools of snapper and grunts frequent this area closer to the bottom. Rays can be found hidden in the sand and barracuda will sometimes shadow you. As you explore the area to the left (away from the sandy bottom), the water level will become shallower, as you float above the ridge incline. This area is predominately covered with soft corals, sponge and sea fans.

If you continue out towards the reef, the coral garden will end and you will reach a sand bottom channel. Swim across the channel to reach the second coral garden. Large outcroppings and clusters of boulder coral begin in about 30 yds. Float over them and explore right to left. The water at this garden is a bit shallower making some of the corals and sea fans appear more vibrant. Grunts and Snapper abound here as well. The occasional Trumpetfish can also be seen.

CONDITIONS THIS VISIT: The winds were blowing northeasterly for most of the week, which made visibility on the North Side of the island sub-optimal (all the crud that pools in the North Sound gets blown back out towards sea, but ends up trapped by the barrier reef). You will see many of the images (especially from the Sting City Dive Site) have greenish hues or castes to them; this is as a result of the higher than usual concentrations of algae.

WHAT I SAW THIS VISIT:

I was thrilled NOT to find any Lion Fish around my regular floating grounds this trip. There was an abundance of the usually fish: various species of Grunts, Snapper, Damselfish, Tilefish, Squirrelfish, Wrasses, Large Parrotfish and Spiny Lobsters. There was a noticeable increase in: Triggerfish, Trunkfish, smaller barracuda and predatory Bar Jacks. There was a noticeable decrease in Larger Snapper, Large barracuda, Grouper, Rays and Conch. I did see one Green Turtle and snapped a few shots before he bolted. In my experience, the turtles in the Rum Point area and Grand Cayman in general, tend to spook easily.

The beautiful, but invasive Lionfish

Resting Nurse Shark

Green Turtle making a quick exit

Southern Sting Ray resting in the sand

Typical boulder coral field

School of Grunts amid the coral

Sunlight dapples the coral masses

Moray Eel makes its presence known

Just like an aquarium

A Jolthead Porgy tries out its camouflage techniqueFrench Grunts and Bluehead Wrasse (initial phase)

Juvenile Parrotfish find protection from predators by shadowing the biggest fish around (me)

Juvenile Parrotfish cascade over a Giant Lobed Star Coral

Large school of juvenile Parrotfish

Serene twilight scene

French Grunts

Southern Sting Ray, Stoplight Parrotfish and Tiger Grouper in the twilight

Barrel Sponges

Spiny Lobster guards his turf

Grasby protecting its territory

A friendly Green Turtle snorkel buddy A large Spotted Eagle Ray glides by Catching up with the Spotted Eagle Ray

DOWNLOAD THE SNORKEL GUIDE FROM GOOGLE DOCUMENTS HERE:

Images from this trip can be found here:

http://snipurl.com/wfgh0

Images from previous visits (with more emphasis on coral formations can be found here):

http://picasaweb.google.com/testudo92/GrandCaymanSnorkelingRumPoint02#

SNORKEL GUIDE: RUM POINT BARRIER REEF

TESTUDO’S SNORKEL GUIDE: Rum Point Barrier Reef

^{Sprawling Staghorn Coral thicket, Rum Point Barrier Reef, Grand Cayman}
Throughout my travels to the various isles and coastal regions of the Caribbean, there has remained one elusive and unfulfilled desire. While I have had the privilege to snorkel barrier reefs reached via boat, my true aim had always been to be able to swim out to one from shore, just like portrayed in the movie The Blue Lagoon (having Brooke Shields along for the swim would be welcomed too). I imagined that a great reward must await those who would venture out to where the fluid power of the ocean collided with the perceived permanency of the land. The Barrier Reef along the North Side and East End districts of Grand Cayman finally provided me with such an opportunity.

LOCATION INFO: The surface level reef creates a sinuous off-shore barrier, uninterrupted for long stretches, along most of the northern and eastern edges of the island. There are also strands located along West Bay, predominately off of Barkers National Park. The distance from shore varies from as close as 40 yds. at spots on the East End to around 400 yds. off the tip of Rum Point. The route described below starts you at the reef area approximately 150 yds. out from shore. The typical current in the area usually runs east to west, so I will usually walk about a half-mile down the beach from Rum Point to the Sea Lodges complex for my entry. You can park your vehicle at the Rum Point Club (19°22’16.70”N 81°16’15.60”W) and walk the half-mile. This is a good idea since the beach area is a natural exit and endpoint to your snorkel, plus there are concessions and restrooms. Another good parking spot, closer to the start of the route, is the Cayman Kai Public Beach parking lot (19°22’8.80”N 81°15’59.62”W)(1/10 mile west of the Sea Lodges). It has a simple restroom facility. It is easy to miss, so when coming from the east, look for the small sign and parking lot on the right-hand side, about 7 or 8 lots past the Sea Lodges.

Link to a larger interactive map of Rum Point

(Click image for printable version)

CONDITIONS: Look for a sandy spot to make your water entry and don your gear. The sea floor near shore can be rocky, with tufts of sea grass beginning about 5-10 yards out. The grassy meadows will last for about 25-30 yards and then quickly give way to a sandy bottom. The depth quickly jumps from 4-8 ft to 15-20 ft. On the snorkel out, be on the watch for passing Eagle Rays and Southern Rays or an occasional Barracuda wingman. With little else to see, this is a good place for a power snorkel. About 100 yds. out the sea floor will display a gradual incline as you approach the reef structure. The best area to focus your explorations is the sweet spot, halfway between the sand zone and the actual barrier reef. Here you will find a profusion of fish, along with a plethora of soft corals, sea whips and rods. The average depth at ebb tide is 4-6 ft. The closer you approach the reef, the shallower the water becomes. The pictures below were taken during low tide, so you can see it is all but impossible to actually swim over-top the barrier reef. As you work westward, there are pockets of detritus and debris where the reef has been battered and yielded some ground to the constant force of the waves. The fish do not see many human visitors like some other areas, but for the most part do not seem to mind you intruding upon their routines.

Unlike the sections of the Barrier Reef many of the Sting Ray City tours visit, this segment does not feature much in the way of impressive coral structures. The reef is predominately composed of ancient coral bases and rubble with most living coral being located in the sweet spot described earlier.

WHAT YOU WILL SEE: Being at the point of water exchange from the open sea, the clarity is usually excellent; even when when conditions may be poor closer to shore. There tend to be more Angelfish, Trumpetfish and Black Durgons here than other spots around the Rum Point area. Noticeably absent are the larger fish such as Grouper, Snapper and Porgies. Lobsters and crabs abound, along with different Grunts, Butterfly and Squirrelfish. A little less than a third of the way towards Rum Point, a beautiful soft coral and sea fan garden will appear. With the water so shallow, a bright and sunny day creates a profusion of color that is truly breathtaking. Look for Trumpetfish trying to pass themselves off as branches of coral and Triggerfish hiding nearby. The next portion of the journey will take you past lone Brain and Lobed Star coral sentries busily tended by their little denizens. You will then come upon an area of larger rocks and boulders with little coral or plant life. This is a good marker to begin looking toward the shore side for what I consider the highlight of snorkel, the beds of Staghorn Coral thickets. These are the most impressive sprawling thickets of Staghorn I have happened upon to date. The three or four large thickets in this area make for an impressive miniature forest. Floating above these coral canopies reveals many of the smaller endemic fish species like Gobbies, Wrasses and Blue Chromis.

If you veer away from the reef a bit by the Staghorn thickets, you will come upon a wondrous little section of reef known as Pete’s Paradise. Here the Staghorn grows in pockets intermingled with Brain and Star corals, creating a most picturesque underwater sight. Lots of Squirrelfish and other smaller species dart amongst the coral. This is one of the few spots were the Black Durgon are a little less shy and avail themselves for pictures.

You now have a decision to make. If you have had enough for the day, you can head in towards the Rum Point Club and grab a mudslide, or continue on towards the outer portion of boulder coral garden that extends out to the reef. If you head in, there will not be much to see, except for remnants of Staghorn thickets from days of old and a pretty desolate sea floor. So another good time for a power snorkel. You can continue to follow the reef where there will be boulder corals spread over the area. The water is usually super clear here, but a bit deeper. So unless you free dive, I usually suggest you take the next option and hit the Boulder Coral Garden. If you choose to proceed to the Boulder Coral Garden, then follow along the reef until you reach the point of land in front of the Retreat Condominiums just past Pete’s Paradise, now start heading back to shore making a line to the pier. You will soon come upon the large Lobed Star corals that comprise the bulk of the outer coral gardens coral field. Taking this option will give you the complete Rum Point snorkel experience.

(Click here for the Coral Garden Guide)

Click on images below to enlarge

Cayman Kai Public Beach parking area makes for a good jumping off point

^{Black Durgon at the shallow crest of the reef}^{Yellowtail Damselfish}

^{Banded Butterfly fish}^{Trumpetfish among the sea whips}

^{Grunts and Blue Tang mass at a coral Lobster and Trunkfish face-off}

Typical Seascape near the reef Porcupinefish hides under a ledge

^{Male Southern Ray on the prowl Shy Porcupinefish makes a get-away}

^{Typical small coral clusters along the reef Sea Rods}

Grunts school amongst the Staghorn Coral

Inquisitive juvenile French Angelfish and a Squirrelfish

A school of Blue Tang

A feeding Sting Ray

A Barracuda hovers in the distance

A pair of Flying Gurnards forage the sea floor

A reef scene

Staghorn clusters sprout amid the other coral in the following images from Pete’s Paradise section of the reef.

Location of Pete’s Paradise Staghorn Garden

So now that my desire has finally been realized, it is time to find another cinematically derived challenge…Jaws, the Deep, the Abyss??? While there may be better areas to snorkel the reef I have yet to find, this section is particularly accessible and makes for a good introduction for a longer snorkel, a bit farther from shore. If you are extremely comfortable in the water, the backside of the reef awaits….

DOWNLOAD THE GUIDE FROM GOOGLE DOCUMENTS HERE: http://snipurl.com/barrier_reef

VIEW ADDITIONAL PICTURES HERE: http://snipurl.com/wfgcv

SNORKEL GUIDE: RUM POINT SHORE "DRIFT" ROUTE

TESTUDO’S SNORKEL GUIDE: Rum Point Drift Route

The regal Queen Triggerfish, attended by a Surgeonfish and Harlequin Bass escort

LOCATION INFO: This reef is located to the east of the ‘point’ at Rum Point and starts about 30-40 yds off shore. The typical current in the area usually runs east to west, so I will usually walk about a half-mile down the beach from Rum Point to the Sea Lodges complex for my entry. You can park your vehicle at the Rum Point Club (19°22’16.70”N 81°16’15.60”W) and walk the half-mile. This is a good idea since the beach area is a natural exit and endpoint to your snorkel, plus there are concessions and restrooms. Another good parking spot, closer to the start of the route, is the Cayman Kai Public Beach parking lot which has a simple restroom (19°22’8.80”N 81°15’59.62”W) (1/10 mile west of the Sea Lodges). It is easy to miss, so when coming from the east, look for the small sign and parking lot on the right-hand side, about 7 or 8 lots past the Sea Lodges (this is also a good entry for the Barrier Reef route).

Parking lot for the Cyaman Kai Public beach

ENTRY: The water entry along this section of the North Side beach ranges from little pockets of sand that quickly give way to turtle grass or a combination of iron-shore and rubble which continue out to the ridge system. The route map below provides some idea of the better entry points I have found for accessing the snorkel grounds. Survey the area and find what looks to be the best entry point. The non-sand or grass bottom areas consist of rock and broken coral bits that for the most part are not sharp on bare feet. Tread lightly when you enter to get your fins on and you should be fine; no urchins or other hidden nasties around.

Link to a larger interactive map of Rum Point

(Click on image for printable version)

WHAT CONDITIONS YOU CAN EXPECT: Depending on where you enter the water, there will be a mixture of grassy area interspersed with sandy bowls and shallow water for about 20-30 yards. The area will then open and the depth will increase to around 4 to 8 feet as you approach the ridges. On the sea side of the ridges you will see a sandy expanse that continues out until the Barrier Reef. There is usually a steady east to west current the will help push you along towards Rum Point. Visibility is usually good, but being a shallow snorkel site it can get stirred up easily with stronger winds or currents. This is a typical drift snorkel, so take your time and explore all the nooks and crannies.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO SEE: The corals here are much smaller than at the Rum Point Coral Gardens; the majority consisting of soft corals, fans and sea whips with some nice Brain Coral specimens here and there. The area is usually loaded with smaller fish that congregate around the corals. The largest fish tend to be Rainbow Parrotfish; you’ll know you are getting close to some when you hear their coral crunching getting louder. Snapper, Butterflyfish, Squirrelfish, Triggerfish, Grunts and Triggerfish are usually prevalent; Lobsters can sometimes be seen in crevasses, keep on the lookout for their antennea. As you move toward the west, the ridge-line will begin to split into a wider ridge closer to shore with a narrower one toward the sandy sea floor zone. I usually choose to initially follow the ridge farther from shore as the schools of fish and corals are more interesting here. Then as this ridge-line begins to breakdown, I will head back to the wider section closer in. The corals begin to become more spread out and less healthy as you approach Rum Point. There will be large areas of dead corals with little to see other than the occasion Sting Ray or Sand Tilefish or other bottom dwellers. Once you reach the last house along the beach before the Retreat Condos you can either 1) head closer to shore and search the grassy areas for resting Sting Rays or the occasional Eagle Ray fly-by or 2) Continue over the dead zone and eventually come upon the small reef directly off the rocky point. The nooks and ledges immediately along the iron-shore are a great spot to get up and personal with smaller fish. The water is very shallow and the Wrasses and other small fish are accustomed to being studied. You can exit on the beach around the point or continue to swim towards the pier and look for the resident Barracuda.

WHAT I SAW THIS TRIP: I met up with the resident school of Rainbow Parrotfish, some of the mature ones approach 4 ft, was greeted by the always shyly inquisitive school of Blue Tang, more Queen Triggerfish than usual, and some comical little Wrasse and juvenile fishes. This is definitely a good snorkel for seeing fish and being able to observe their behaviors; without having to go far from shore or expend to much energy swimming.