Mrs. Testudo and I did the Bio-Bay tour with Cayman Kayaks February 2009 and to say it was really an enlightening experience is an understatement. The wife was not too thrilled about having to participate (paddling around in the dark, getting wet and potentially getting mosquito bites…not her idea of fun).  I have been itching to check out this supposed natural wonder in our backyard, ever since I read about a similar bay in Vieques, Puerto Rico. Luckily this trip the moon went into hiding and we finally had optimal conditions; so she had no choice but to gave in.

We meet our guide Tom, at the Rum Point Club parking lot just after sunset. The group signed liability waivers, settled up payments, applied bug spray, got outfitted with a paddle and life-vest, applied some more bug spray and then walked across the street to the bio-luminescent cove.

Since it was the day before the new moon, the conditions for observing the light emitting dinoflagellates (tiny creatures that emit light like a firefly or glowworm when threatened) that inhabit the cove were near perfect (i.e. really dark and not too windy). I had checked what the phases of the moon were going to be for our stay and purposely booked the darkest night for the tour.

Information on the bio-luminescent Dinoflagellates

We got outfitted with our kayaks (2 people per) and started paddling out to the far end of the cove, just as the darkness began to gather. About midway, at the center of the cove, the paddle stroke wakes began to look a bit different, but I really couldn’t be sure if just the lights from the homes that surround the bay playing off the ripples or if something else was transpiring. When we reached the far end of the cove we gathered-up kayaks and Tom began to give a thorough explanation of the creatures we were about to witness, why they do what they do, why they are in this one particular cove (one of only a handful in the world), and what we could expect on the balance of the tour.

During the informational session, we started to notice the water around us was sparkling. “OK, neat, but there better be more”, was what I’m sure was going through my wife’s head. As we started to follow Tom back to a dark section on the cove the show really began.

The paddle stroke and kayak wakes began to have and eery glow, that got more and more intense as we paddled onward to the next stop. Suddenly, we could see quick streaks of light darting about the kayaks. “Fish” explained Tom, “wait until you see a lobster or sting ray”.  We did not have our waterproof camera yet, so these are stock images, but I’ll update with our own pictures once we get back to the cove.

I do not want to go into more detail, as not to spoil the thrill of actually experiencing this wonderful natural phenomenon in person. All I can say is that it was as awesome an experience as could have been hoped for. Kids (10+) and Adults will be absolutely mesmerized by some of sights that look like they came right out of movie a special effects studio - the Navi’s from Avatar and oozing glowing Alien vs Predator blood.

My wife and I agree that we will recommend this to tour to all our friends, family and guests. The tour lasted a little over an hour. Too bad it is only available two weeks per month. The only thing that could be better is if you were lucky enough to go out on a night on which a black-out occurred for complete darkness. It was amazing and a bit troubling at the the amount of light that was being emitted from the homes that surround the cove. You can really begin to understand that there really is such a thing as light pollution and what the dark skies movement is about.  I can only imagine what an even more magical experience it would be in the utter darkness.

The mosquitoes really were not bad, and were most bothersome while we waited in the parking lot since it was dusk (their prime feeding time). So if you are a mosquito magnet, just make sure to apply your deterrent of choice before hanging around the meeting spot.

We are far from accomplished kayakers and were pretty much on par skill-wise with the entire group. You will bump into other kayaks, but everyone just laughed as it happened since they had just hit someone else.

So for a truly unique and informational experience that sets Grand Cayman apart from most other Caribbean islands I would definitely give it a try.  

We even went out an bought a kayak so we can experience again on our own.

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http://www.caymankayaks.com/biobay.htm

View Testudo’s Wonderland Snorkel Guide in a larger map

TESTUDO’S SNORKELING GUIDE: WONDERLAND

            - North Side Cemetery to Chisholm’s Grocery -

Blankets of Finger Coral and clusters of mushroom-like Star Coral

The lack of snorkeling opportunities this trip, due to unfavorable water conditions, had me suffering through a bout with melancholy that would make a Mock Turtle jealous.  I was desperate not allow the door to close on 2010 without at least one final go at a snorkel.  It was growing late in the day and the unrelenting currents over at Rum Point were dissuading me from heading out to my usual go to spot at the Coral Gardens.  I was off into my own pool of tears when, thanks to a tip from blog reader Jim D., I found my salvation - a site I think I shall call Wonderland.  I can almost swear I glimpsed puffs of smoke from a giant blue sea slug drifting among the mushroom-like corals; and was that a grinning Cheshire Porcupinefish, popping in and out amongst the underwater tree branches?  

LOCATION INFO (19°21’5.14”N  81°12’22.49”W): Situated in the heart of the wee village of North Side, just past the Post Office and Civic Center when heading West, is a small seaside park (about 2.1 miles from the Frank Sound Rd/North Side Rd. intersection and 1.5 miles west from Over the Edge restaurant).  The park consists mostly of an overflow parking lot for the church across the street and some some picnic tables (making this a nice lunch spot for those heading to and from Rum Point).  Adjacent to the eastern side of the park is the North Side Cemetery.  Park your car at the park, use the tables to organize your gear and the sandy beach is only a few yards away. If present, follow the fish-footman into the sea and start your adventure.

Grassy parking lot at the small North Side church park

 Another view of the park from North Side Road.  Cemetery is immediately to the left.

No smoking, no drinking, no loud music, no snorkeling

 North Side Cemetery

North Side Wesleyan Church across from the park

View of the beach and water entry facing west  

View of the beach and water entry facing east 

SITE CONDITIONS: The water entry is a mostly small rocks and coral debris, but can be managed barefoot if you like to put your fins on in the water.  The general snorkeling area is about 700 yds long, running East/West from the park down to Chisholm’s Grocery Store.  The barrier reef is very close to shore here, ranging from about 75 - 150 yds, so heavy wave action and surge gets mitigated significantly.  However, if the seas are rough you may still encounter some surge the closer you get to the barrier reef, as I experienced on my visit.  The general current along the north shore runs East to West and was not particularly strong at this site.  My advice is to start from the East and make your way West with the current.  

This is a shallow water snorkel area and the coral height can make navigation difficult during low tide, as I also experienced.   If possible you should aim for a visit when the high tide is approaching (Cayman Tidal Forecasts).  Average water depths ranged from 2 - 8 feet, getting shallower the closer to the barrier reef.

As is the case with many sites on the north shore, mock turtle grass patches appear almost immediately upon entry.  The water remains fairly shallow until about 40 yards out where is begins to approach 4-6 feet.  There happened to be a fallen tree about 60 yds straight out from the beach on my visit.  Due in equal parts to the surf and turbidity in the water, the branches appeared to “grasp out” towards you with each swell.  It made for an eerie underwater sight.  Would love to check it out in a few weeks on a calmer day to see what grinning creatures have made it their home.  

This site is all about the coral.  There are fish and other marine life here, but I did not encounter the sheer numbers or diversity as at other sites.  However, some fish I did encounter definitely ate far too many cakes.

I have seen some big Barracuda, but he was easily the biggest fish I have ever seen.  No lie, his tail fin was as wide as my flipper and overall the fish was close to 6 feet in length!

At about 40-50 yds out you will reach the first coral.  Turn left, then turn right into the hedge-like coral cluster maze and start exploring.  The shallow depth and serpentine layout of the shoals make paying careful attention to your immediate surrounding critical to avoiding a nasty brush with the coral.  There are numerous species of coral in this area, creating a rainbow-like profusion of colors.  Garnet Starlet Corals, verdant green and ocher star corals, purple Corky Sea Fingers and Yellow Mustard Hill and Brain Corals.  I was getting bounced around a good bit and the sunlight was playing peek-a-boo with the clouds, so the pictures really do not do justice to the true vibrancy of the corals here.  I only scratched the surface of this site, but I am confident there are even more amazing things to be viewed and hopefully under better conditions.

Blood orange Star Corals

Verdant green Star Corals

Cory Sea Fingers with their Polyps extended 

Mustard Hill Coral cluster

Lettuce Coral 

Unique shaped Brain Coral

‘Humpty Dumpty’ -  Finger Coral with polyps extended

“Off with their hands!” The Digit Garden - Finger Coral and Corky Sea Finger patches

The Caterpillar’s Mushroom Garden of ocher Star Coral

Another view of the Digit Garden

As you head west, Elkhorn Coral start to become more prevalent and the Star and Finger Corals give way to large Brain and Starlet Corals.  The overall vibrancy and health of the corals also begins to diminish.  I found the best snorkeling in the area behind the Mahogany Point Condos (near docks) to be towards the shore side of the coral shoals.  This was also the section that presented the most surge and largest rollers.  The water action on the inland side was much calmer.  As you approach Chisholm’s you’ll pass an undeveloped parcel of land and the sea floor will become grassy again.  This is where I was taken by surprise by the big barracuda.  

The water exit behind Chisholm’s Grocery has a fair amount of smooth and sharp ironshore, but the sea floor is fairly clear of debris and sharp objects.  I suggest keeping your fins on and doing the backwards duck walk onto the beach to lessen the chance of a lacerate foot.

The Queen’s Croquet Grounds on the reef side near Mahogany Point Condos

‘Tweedledum and Tweedledee’ Brain Coral specimens on the shore side near Mahogany Point

The last reef rampart before exiting

The water exit area behind Chisholm’s Grocery (notice the iron shore)

Chisholm’s Grocery marks the conclusion of this tale

Mesmerized by the world unfurling before my eyes, I was getting drawn deeper and deeper into this wondrous site; completely absent-minded that the time I had arranged for my pick-up by Chisholm’s Grocery had long since past.  While engrossed watching a quadrille lobster in its den, I heard my name off in the distance.  The faint calling, quickly grew into shouting, scolding me for being very, very late for tea.  Sorry Honey.

I’ll let you guess what movie was playing on the plane ride down to Cayman.

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 © 2011 Testudo Guides, LLC.

Hey Jim,

You picked a great house for a snorkel base on North Side.  I love the set-up of Far Tortuga, plus the name kind of hits home.  

The snorkeling there should be good.  I have not snorkeled directly in the waters off Far Tortuga, but I have down the road, about 1 mile closer to Rum Point.  I was just picking out some spots that looked promising from shore.  The fish were plentiful, but coral was lacking at that particular spot.  The barrier reef was a bit too far from the shore, so I didn’t get to explore, but a little closer to Driftwoods is pretty good.   I can’t recall if there are any cuts in the reef nearby the house, but the reef breaks-up a bit over that way so there probably are.  You you might try looking on Google Earth to possibly ID some prior to your arrival.  Chisholm’s Grocery is a searchable land mark and the house is a little east of there.

The back side of the reef can be snorkeled, but it will depend on the conditions.  I usually stay on the in-land side unless the water is placid, no desire to become a reef ornament if the waves or currents are unfavorable. There are some drop-offs in that general area and you can sometimes see larger fish coming in and out with the tides.  If you get tired of the area, you are within 10 minutes to some other excellent areas as well.  My current favorite is Barefoot Beach.  Hope you have a great trip!