TESTUDO'S SNORKEL GUIDE Cayman Off the Beaten Path

SNORKEL GUIDE: BAREFOOT BEACH

TESTUDO’S SNORKEL GUIDE: Barefoot Beach

View from atop the stone staircase at Barefoot Beach, East End, Grand Cayman

LOCATION INFO: Perhaps one of the most stunning vistas in all of Grand Cayman can be viewed looking west from the widow’s walk, atop the stone staircase at Barefoot Beach. This idyllic spot has pretty much dropped-off the tourist radar (if it ever was on it) once the planned Mandarin Oriental resort fell into post hurricane Ivan limbo. Having seen a brief mention of this spot (when describing the shore dive at neighboring Anchor Point) in the snorkeling guide that got me started on Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands Discounts Dive and Snorkel Guide; I thought it might just be a nice quiet little beach worth searching out one day.

Having correctly guessed at the location thanks to an entrance sign on the defunct Barefoot Gardens Villas development, Mrs. Testudo and I took our chairs, cooler of CayLight and sauntered down the path to the beach eager to see what we happened upon. The short downhill path through some Seagrape trees opens to a small natural sandy beach. The surrounding palm tree fringed cliffs create an amphitheater like setting and which adds to the beauty of the spot. There are washed up strands of sea grass with some intermingled flotsam and jetsam (Anyone loose a flip-flop?). Just clear out some space and make yourself comfortable. Following the beach westward towards the abandoned villas leads towards another good snorkeling area Anchor Point.

FINDING IT (19°21’12.91”N 81° 7’36.05”W): Look for the Barefoot Gardens Villa sign on the abandoned development’s wall when coming from the West (Old Man Bay, approx. 3.3 miles from the Frank Sound Rd. intersection) or a long, low stone wall when coming from the East (the Reef Resort is about 2.3 miles away). The entrance to the beach is an unmarked, small tuck-in opening between the Seagrape trees, with parking for 2-3 cars (if done right) or park along road. It is easy to miss, so just drive slow when you come upon one of the landmarks and keep on the look-out for a speed limit sign and a driveway on the opposite side of the road. There is little traffic on the road, so backing up is usually possible in the event of a drive-by.

Link to a larger interactive map of Barefoot Beach

CONDITIONS: The sandy beach gradually spills into the usually calm water, making for a very easy entry and donning of gear. When not snorkeling, the water is perfect for swimming or leisurely floating the day away, enjoying your favorite beverage. From the beach, the best snorkeling can be found by heading straight out towards the barrier reef. The initial 125 yds are approx. 4-6 feet deep, passing over seemingly endless beds of sea grass. Here you are apt see an occasion turtle, reef squid or a curious gang of Bar Jacks. Upon reaching the end of the grassy meadows, you will start to see large mounds of interspersed coral heads popping up from the ongoing grassy bottom. This area is very much reminiscent of the Queen’s Monument location in terms of seascape and marine life. Depending on the tide, the depth can range from 3-8 feet with little or no current. There are some underwater vents in the area that can cause the water to become a bit blurry. This is due to the chemicals being ejected (more on the vents to come in the upcoming Anchor Point Guide) mixing with the sea water. You may notice a sulfur smell on the beach if the vents are particularly active or it is a windless day.

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO SEE: The rapidly unfolding coral formations and marine life are abundant throughout the area. Start exploring in a westerly direction out to the reef, then zig-zagging back and forth over the shoal area. The coral in this shoal is among the healthiest near shore I have yet encountered. There are young Elkhorn, budding Brain corals, large carpets of green Mountainous Star corals and some eerie ancient Elkhorn remnants out by the reef. Fish of all kinds can be seen darting about and many are unafraid. Since the water is rather shallow, close-up observation and of the creatures that dwell within nooks and crevasses of the corals is easily accomplished. Careful observation may yield an anemone or sea flower spreading and closing its “petals” in search of a drifting morsel. Lots of juvenile fish that look nothing like their older siblings are also fun to discover. Small schools of the shy Black Durgon can usually be seen on a nearby coral head, only to gradually drift away as you approach. Grunts and small snapper are plentiful, and the grassy sea bed makes it a great environment for rays. Scorpionfish, Glasseye Snapper, and Glassy Sweepers are also regular sightings. The conditions make this a great location for snorkelers of all abilities, except for possibly first-timers (due to the moderate swim out).

Here are some pictures from my last snorkel. The seas were a bit cloudy, but the fish were friendly:

Barefoot Beach Gardens Villas landmark - Views from East and West

Stone Wall landmark heading west Tuck-in, with a small parking area at base

Squadron of Bar Jacks

Juvenile Yellowtailed Damselfish

Juvenile Smooth Trunkfish

Elkhorn and Brain Corals

Christmas Tree Hydroid

Glasseye Snapper

Yellow Sting Ray

Mountainous Star Coral

More Mountainous Star Coral

Corky Sea Fingers

Grunts and a Wrasse

Typical Seascape out at the reef

Green Sea Turtle

Fish Bowl

View of Barefoot Beach from the water

This site is quickly becoming my favorite due to the great corals, abundant fish and beautiful setting. So for somewhere truly off the beaten path, go run Barefoot to this beach. If you get the opportunity to visit let me know what you think.

DOWNLOAD THE GUIDE FROM GOOGLE DOCUMENTS

ADDITIONAL PICTURES HERE:

http://goo.gl/tJEN

http://picasaweb.google.com/testudo92/GrandCaymanSnorkelingRumPoint02#

SNORKEL GUIDE: WRECK OF THE GENEVA KATHLEEN

TESTUDO’S SNORKEL GUIDE: The Wreck of the Geneva Kathleen

^{The iconic winch wheel remains of the Geneva Kathleen, a three masted schooner raked over the reef by years of storm surges.}

While never one drawn to exploring shipwrecks (I usually associate them with junk yards); I had read about the Geneva Kathleen wreck being nearby Barefoot Beach and became intrigued. The maps locating the position of the wreck were rather vague, so I kept an eye out during my snorkels for anything that looked like a shipwreck. After a few snorkels of the area came up empty, I become even more determined to find her. I snorkeled the area inside the reef all the way to Anchor Point and the area along the back side of the reef, to no avail. Then, one day packing up on the beach after snorkeling, I observed a group enter the water and head east, away from the coral fields towards the cliffs and a small marker buoy. Didn’t think much of it until I realized the buoy must be a marker for something. I made a mental note to check it out on our next trip back to Grand Cayman.

This guide is really more of a supplement to the Barefoot Beach guide, since it is just another reason to visit that wonderful place.

Some history of the Geneva Kathleen and her ultimate demise can be found here in Shipwrecks of the Cayman Islands By Wood Lawson.

LOCATION (19°21’12.91”N 81° 7’36.05”W): The wreck is most easily reached from Barefoot Beach. Look for the Barefoot Gardens Villa sign on the abandoned development’s wall when coming from the West (Old Man Bay, approx. 3.3 miles from the Frank Sound Rd. intersection) or a long, low stone wall when coming from the East (the Reef Resort is about 2.3 miles away). The entrance to the beach is an unmarked, small tuck-in opening between the Seagrape trees, with parking for 2-3 cars (if done right) or park along road. It is easy to miss, so just drive slow when you come upon one of the landmarks and keep on the look-out for a speed limit sign and a driveway on the opposite side of the road. There is little traffic on the road, so backing up is usually possible in the event of a drive-by.

Link to a larger interactive map of the Wreck of the Geneva Kathleen

^{Barefoot Beach Gardens Villas landmark Views from East and West}

^{Stone Wall landmark when coming from East Tuck-in, with a small parking area at end (PARK HERE)}

FINDING THE SPOT: Once you make your way down to the beach, the good snorkeling is off to the West (left when facing the water) and the wreck is off to the East, just beyond the stone staircase landmark. Look for the white marker buoy just off the cliff base. The wreck remains start about 150 yards from the beach and extend out about 20 yards from the cliff base.

^{Pathway down to the beach Marker buoy viewed from the beach}^{Location of the buoy marking the Geneva Kathleen remains, looking east/right from the beach}

CONDITIONS: The sandy beach gradually spills into the usually calm water, making for a very easy entry and donning of gear. The snorkel over will take you over a series of turtle grass meadows broken up by the occasional sand pit. Trunkfish and Bar Jacks can sometimes been seen here. Depending on the tides, the water on the way there can be anywhere from two to five feet deep. The marker buoy is about 100 yards from the beach. There is some isolated debris that can be seen as you approach the main wreck field, so keep a look out. Upon reaching the wreck, the water will be five to eight feet deep. If waves are present and strong, be sure not to get too close to the cliffs while exploring. If it is calm, there are small schools of fish that gather in the protective nooks and crannies of the cliffs that can be worth checking-out. Water conditions were a bit cloudy on my visit, which cast a pallid veil over the area and created generally solemn feeling around the wreck site.

_{Turtle Grass MeadowsSandy pits dot the grassy meadow areas on the way to the wreck site. The first section of the wreck you will most likely come upon Bollards laying in the sand shallows}

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT TO SEE: The sighting of the coral encrusted anchor winch wheels signals your arrival to the main debris field of the wreck. This is the most intact and recognizable remnant I found and it sure makes a great site marker. After investigating, head towards the cliffs where the larger portions of the wreck are located. Fish, Anemone and the occasional Lobster now preside over the Geneva Kathleen’s remains. Cayman Islands law prohibits the taking and removal of any artifacts, so make sure just to be an active observer. While much of the wreck has been encrusted over, you can easily make out some of the bollards, cleats and the skeletal frame.

A second area of the wreckage is locate about 50-75 yds out from the cliff. Here is where the ship’s hull and rib-like frame fragments ave come to rest. Toward what appears to be the aft section of the ship, there is another, smaller winch wheel that still maintains some of the gear teeth on it.

^{The skeletal remains of the Geneva Kathleen’s structure that were not salvaged.}