A Rum Point Sunset

Mrs. Testudo and I did the Bio-Bay tour with Cayman Kayaks February 2009 and to say it was really an enlightening experience is an understatement. The wife was not too thrilled about having to participate (paddling around in the dark, getting wet and potentially getting mosquito bites…not her idea of fun).  I have been itching to check out this supposed natural wonder in our backyard, ever since I read about a similar bay in Vieques, Puerto Rico. Luckily this trip the moon went into hiding and we finally had optimal conditions; so she had no choice but to gave in.

We meet our guide Tom, at the Rum Point Club parking lot just after sunset. The group signed liability waivers, settled up payments, applied bug spray, got outfitted with a paddle and life-vest, applied some more bug spray and then walked across the street to the bio-luminescent cove.

Since it was the day before the new moon, the conditions for observing the light emitting dinoflagellates (tiny creatures that emit light like a firefly or glowworm when threatened) that inhabit the cove were near perfect (i.e. really dark and not too windy). I had checked what the phases of the moon were going to be for our stay and purposely booked the darkest night for the tour.

Information on the bio-luminescent Dinoflagellates

We got outfitted with our kayaks (2 people per) and started paddling out to the far end of the cove, just as the darkness began to gather. About midway, at the center of the cove, the paddle stroke wakes began to look a bit different, but I really couldn’t be sure if just the lights from the homes that surround the bay playing off the ripples or if something else was transpiring. When we reached the far end of the cove we gathered-up kayaks and Tom began to give a thorough explanation of the creatures we were about to witness, why they do what they do, why they are in this one particular cove (one of only a handful in the world), and what we could expect on the balance of the tour.

During the informational session, we started to notice the water around us was sparkling. “OK, neat, but there better be more”, was what I’m sure was going through my wife’s head. As we started to follow Tom back to a dark section on the cove the show really began.

The paddle stroke and kayak wakes began to have and eery glow, that got more and more intense as we paddled onward to the next stop. Suddenly, we could see quick streaks of light darting about the kayaks. “Fish” explained Tom, “wait until you see a lobster or sting ray”.  We did not have our waterproof camera yet, so these are stock images, but I’ll update with our own pictures once we get back to the cove.

I do not want to go into more detail, as not to spoil the thrill of actually experiencing this wonderful natural phenomenon in person. All I can say is that it was as awesome an experience as could have been hoped for. Kids (10+) and Adults will be absolutely mesmerized by some of sights that look like they came right out of movie a special effects studio - the Navi’s from Avatar and oozing glowing Alien vs Predator blood.

My wife and I agree that we will recommend this to tour to all our friends, family and guests. The tour lasted a little over an hour. Too bad it is only available two weeks per month. The only thing that could be better is if you were lucky enough to go out on a night on which a black-out occurred for complete darkness. It was amazing and a bit troubling at the the amount of light that was being emitted from the homes that surround the cove. You can really begin to understand that there really is such a thing as light pollution and what the dark skies movement is about.  I can only imagine what an even more magical experience it would be in the utter darkness.

The mosquitoes really were not bad, and were most bothersome while we waited in the parking lot since it was dusk (their prime feeding time). So if you are a mosquito magnet, just make sure to apply your deterrent of choice before hanging around the meeting spot.

We are far from accomplished kayakers and were pretty much on par skill-wise with the entire group. You will bump into other kayaks, but everyone just laughed as it happened since they had just hit someone else.

So for a truly unique and informational experience that sets Grand Cayman apart from most other Caribbean islands I would definitely give it a try.  

We even went out an bought a kayak so we can experience again on our own.

DOWNLOAD THE REVIEW HERE: 

http://www.caymankayaks.com/biobay.htm

This is a basis for a driving tour of Grand Cayman I posted on Trip Advisor.  Others are invited to add with their recommendations, pictures and advice via post or comment.  

Please be advised Cayman follows the British Rules of the Road and driving is done on the left hand side of the road.  Posted speed limits are in Miles Per Hour and the police do stop and ticket speeders, so be mindful.

A suggested island tour or rainy/off-weather day trip (but sunny conditions really do the scenery justice) that basically circumvents 3/4 of the island, originating from the Seven Mile Beach area and heading East would be:

Head East from Seven Mile Beach along West Bay Rd.  As you enter town, theIsland Glass Blowing Studio offers up a chance to see one of a kind glass creations being made.  

Proceed into George Town along Church Street and try not to run over any cruise ship visitors.  If the weather is not the best and you are killing time or if parking is readily available, the Cayman Islands National Museum is a hidden in plain sight gem.

Just past town is the Black Coral Clinic where the “unique” Doc Carey will be glad to display his creations and collections.

 Next, stop at Pure Art just down the road if you like handmade local art and crafts.

Just a few hundred yards down the road is Smith Cove Bacadere.  A picturesque little swimming hole, you’ll probably want to return to later on during your stay.  Water is usually calm and there is some OK snorkeling around the Elkhorn coral in the left center of the cove.  If you didn’t happen to yet see one of the many Cayman Blue Iguana statues around the island yet, here is a chance.

Back on the road through South Sound you can admire the “nice” homes of this well-to-do neighborhood. There are a few small community beaches all along this tour that you can stop off at (most are nothing special, but nice to check out regardless.  Just look for the green and white community beach access signs).

Once you reach Red Bay, look for the Flip Flop Tree photo op just past the docks on the right.  It even has its own Facebook page!

At the end of South Sound Rd., merge onto Shamrock Rd, follow signs towards the Eastern Districts. If you like beer or are just curious as to how it’s brewed, stop off at the Cayman Islands Brewery.  The tour is less than 30 minutes or you can just say “hi” and get samples of the days production and shoot the breeze with the brew-master.

If fresh fruits (mangoes, papaya, limes etc..) are in season keep an eye out for the roadside stands anywhere along this entire route.

Continuing along Shamrock Road you will reach the town of Savannah.  A nice stop here is the Pedro St. James ”castle”; a restored mansion with well regarded tours describing the history of the island.  

Just off the parking lot are impressive cliffs that make a dramatic photo op when framed by the sea.

Back on Shamrock Rd (becomes Bodden Town Rd.) traveling towards Bodden Town you will come across the Market at the Grounds, the agricultural heart of Cayman, where a Saturday morning farmers and craft market is held (not a suggested stop unless you happen to be passing before 10:00 on a Saturday).

Back on Bodden Town Rd., you will soon be entering Cayman’s first capital, Bodden Town.  On your right will be Rankins Jerk Pit (as called on Trip Advisor), the first of a few jerk and fish fry establishments for those craving some “local fare”.  This section of the island was hit hard from Hurricane Ivan and is just now (2011) beginning to get fully restored to it former conditions.  Coe Wood Beach is restored public area with some basic facilities and the Grape Tree Cafe fish fry if you need to make a stop.

The Mission House is another spot for history buffs to explore.  

There is some good snorkeling off the beach from the Turtle Nest Innand Governor Russell Public Beach for those needing to commune with the fishes.

Towards the center of town are a few attractions that may be of interest: Beach Bubbles is a small store in the strip center next door to the post office that carries a collection of locally handmade soaps and lotions and other giftables, the Bodden Town Pirate Caves is a stop for only the youngest or most obsessed pirate lovers in the group and a local art and gift store in the Bodden Town Art Shop.  Some good snorkeling exists off of the Govenor Russell Public Beach adjacent to the Bodden Town Cemetery.

Opposite the cemetery is Anton Bodden Drive where the Look Out Convenience Store is located a few hundred yards on the left.  This is a nice place to stop and sample some of their fresh squeezed local juices post snorkeling.  A sign is usually posted along Bodden Town Rd. with the juices available that day.

Continuing on the way out of town you’ll pass Chester’s Fish Fry home to one of the most famous signs in Cayman “Buy one jerk, get one free” and Woods’ Jerk Stand.  

In a few minutes the wide expanse of Pease Bay’s scenic water vistas will unfold.  On a sunny day the blue water can glow electric and make another great photo op.  

Onwards towards Breakers, at the other end of the bay, is the the landmark Lighthouse Restaurant and the neighboring down home Cayman style South Coast Bar and Grill.

A mile or so past the Lighthouse is the turn for Frank Sound Rd. and the short-cut to North Side. If you want to visit either the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park and Blue Iguana Sanctuary or the Mastic Trail, turn there.  If not, continue along the coast towards East End.  You can also visit either attraction on the return as well.

Entering the East End District, (the road name changes to Seaview Rd. and then Austin Connolly Drive)  you will begin to get a glimpse of the Cayman of olde.  No hi-rise condos or fancy hotels here.  Other than the solitude and and stunning views, the biggest attraction in this area are the Blow Holes.  Fun for kids and adults alike, especially if the there are some swells crashing ashore.

Along East End there are some quick stops like the East End Light House Park (inland side) and Wreck of the Ten Sails (look for the giant ship’s propeller).  Keep a look out for the “old folks” crossing sign near the rest home.

In this area, some folks like to eat at Vivine’s Kitchen for a truly Caymanian culinary experience or at Tukka’s for a taste of Down Under meets Caribbean.  Both have great water views.

You’ll soon come upon the East End Public Beach at Colliers. There are restrooms here and the cabanas and piers make for nice photo backdrop.  Another Iguana for those keeping track.

Just past the beach, keep your eye’s peeled for the East End’s Flip Flop Tree in the undeveloped area just before Morritt’s Tortuga Club & Resort and the Reef Resort.  

A nice stretch of beach fronts the neighboring resorts and feel free to stop at either for a look-see, to grab a drink or bite to eat at one of their bars, or check out the good snorkeling grounds.

After the Reef Resort you can stop off at the hidden Barefoot Beach and climb the stairs off to the right for another dramatic photo op.  It can be hard to spot the hidden turn-off, but a great find for those who manage to.  Refer to the link above for instructions on where to find it.

Back on the road towards Rum Point (now called Queen’s Highway) you’ll pass the town of Old Man Bay,  just after the intersection with the ball fields.   If you happen to be driving by on a Friday or Saturday there may be some local food for sale roadside. 

Over the Edge restaurant and bar makes another nice spot to grab some lunch for fresh fish lovers and take in a great view.

Continuing towards Rum Point, you’ll enter Cayman Kai, another spot to check out some “nice” snowbird homes and try and make sense of their mostly whimsical names.  

As you get to the end of Rum Point Drive (now the name of the road), stop at the Rum Point Club beach and see if it is crowded or not.  You will notice the rum barrels spelling out the destination at the parking lot entrance.  If not, spend some at the beach (free to use amenities like chairs and restrooms), imbibe one of the Wreck Bar & Grill’s famous Mudslides, walk to the end of the pier or just chill in a hammock (taking in the amazing shades of blue).  Yes, that is yet another Blue Iguana statue you just tripped over.

If you have packed a lunch or have you own food and drink (neither of which are permitted at the Rum Point Beach Club), there is a public beach section at the far western end of the Rum Point Club’s parking lot.  Look for the public beach access sign and park along the street.  Just follow the white fenced bordered path to the beach.  Same great beach, just no lounge chairs and some fallen trees.

 If you happen to arrive with a hoard of cruise ship visitors still enjoying their excursions or on a Sunday afternoon when the locals have descended for a weekend get-away,  head towards Kaibo Restuarant and Star Fish Point (as it is termed on Trip Advisor).  The turn onto Water Cay Rd. is just before the rum barrels and there should be a sign for Kaibo.

This is a great little spot where Cushion starfish usually congregate in the sandy shallows off the point.  Refer to the linked guide for Starfish Beach on how to get there.  

The cruise ship crowds have usually vacated by 2:00 PM, so it if the timing has worked out you can now head to the Rum Point Club.

You have now covered most of the island east of Seven Mile Beach, so it is probably late in the day and time to head back.  When returning, take the Frank Sound Rd. “short-cut” at the intersection by the ball fields. Stick to the “highways” and you’ll make the return trip in 45-60 minutes.

Map featuring many of the points of interest contained in the travel guide (be sure to look at page 2 on the map as well):

(Driving Tour Map)

(Download Driving Tour Here)

Safe travels and happy motoring. 

yowzers73,

Thrilled you enjoyed one of my favorite spots! While I do most of my snorkeling at Barefoot on the inside of the reef, there is a wall drop off not too far past the reef. Snorkeling the wall is a bit better just just up from Barefoot at Anchor Point. 

However, there is a wreck that I understand to be located somewhere between Barefoot and Anchor Point, the Gevena Kathleen, that is supposedly strewn throughout the barrier reef. I went hunting for it last month but had no luck finding it. I went towards Anchor Point, next time I’ll head to the right of the Staircase. Maybe someone else will have better luck or can point out where it is if they’ve seen it.

EDIT: Found the wreck remnants.  It was too easy…will publish a guide shortly.  Here are some teaser pix.

“Wreck of the Geneva - Kathleen
The Geneva Kathleen - a two-masted, wooden-hulled, 200-foot plus schooner - met her demise on Grand Cayman’s east end during a raging hurricane in 1929. It pushed her hard onto and then over the shallow barrier reef protecting the Cayman shore. Her remains sit there now in just seven feet of water, her iron winches and bollards encrusted by soft and hard corals. Enter via a protected beach (ask local dive shops for directions to the beach and the wreck) and snorkel right along the shoreline. A trail of artifacts will gradually lead to her grave just inside the reef. (Remember, artifacts are protected; please do not remove any items.) Currents here can sometimes be quite strong, but more often than not, it is as flat as a swimming pool. Check before you head out. It’s a great snorkel site, but not for the beginner.”

My ultimate goal is to have guides for all the snorkel spots on all three islands. I will eventually be getting to some of the lesser known spots along South Sound either later this year or early next. Though I really like Eden Rock and Devil’s Grotto, it has been a bit lower on the priority list since it is so well know and utilized. But If I hit it next trip maybe I can get a guide published. In the mean time, here is a link to a dive map of the site that points out some of the features for both Eden Rock and Devils Grotto:

EDEN ROCK Site Map

DEVIL’S GROTTO Site Map